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Events in Summer 2004
May: Field Day at Cenarth
The large
number of members who attended the first field day of
the year were rewarded with a lovely early summer day
in the interesting village of Cenarth on the banks of
the Teifi.
During the morning session in the vestry
of Capel Brynseion the president, the Revd J. Towyn Jones,
reviewed the life and times of some notable people from
the locality. He was followed by Dr. Geraint Jenkins who
gave an illustrated lecture on "Coracles on Welsh
rivers". Mr. Mervyn Thomas, a native of the village
and the author of a book on its history, outlined the
main features of the village walk he would lead in the
afternoon.
The walk started under the "new"
Cenarth bridge, looking at the course of the old road.
The mill on the other side of the river was another feature
under consideration. The visit to the church was followed
by a walk to the old smithy.
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Mervyn Thomas prepares to lead the walk below Cenarth
bridge with Alastair Loxdale in the foreground.

Iris Davies and Jean Griffiths enjoy the sunshine
on the banks of the Teifi.

Programme secretary Hazel Martell and Antiquary editor
Muriel Bowen Evans in Cenarth church.
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June: Field Day at Corsham, Wiltshire
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For their
summer out-of-county field day Antiquarians visited Corsham.
The long journey was amply repaid by Hazel Martell's very
well organised programme, starting with coffee and scones
in the tearoom of the stately home and culminating in
an excellent tour of the house led by James Methuen-Campbell.
The court was a royal Manor in the days
of the Saxon kings and is now the home of the Methuen
family. It is based on an Elizabethan house dating from
1582. The tour started in the picture gallery, designed
and built specifically to house two important fine art
and furniture collections. The fantastic plasterwork of
the ceiling is mirrored in a specially commissioned carpet.
One of the joys of the tour was that there are no carpet
druggets or velvet ropes; we were visiting a much-loved
home. Mr Cambell pointed out the most important of the
paintings, notably the exquisite Annunciation by Fra Filippo
Lippi, painted in 1463. Among a host of old masters were
delightful portraits of children by Reynolds. Many extraordinarily
beautiful pieces of furniture were displayed throughout
the staterooms. The park and gardens were designed by
"Capability" Brown and Humphrey Repton.
The little town of Corsham was described
by Pevsner as having "no match in Wiltshire for the
wealth of good houses". 17th century weavers' cottages
have their first floor doors, used for loading wool, now
blocked up. Another long row of artisan's cottages are
known as the Flemish Houses. The Hungerford Almshouses,
where Antiquarians were treated to a series of leisurely
guided tours, were a joy. Founded by Dame Margaret Hungerford,
wife of the commander of Cromwell's forces in Wiltshire
who owned Corsham Court at that time, they are still occupied.
The schoolroom, which doubled as a chapel, still has the
original desks; the master's chair is built into the pulpit.
St Bartholomew's Church dates from 1132 but is of Saxon
origin.
Jill Davies
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Members gather in the evening sunshine before starting
the journey home.

Wendy Davies and Conrad Davies in the gardens of
Corsham Court

Outside the Almshouses
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June:
Field Evening at Y Wern, Llanelli
For the chairman's field day chairman
Arfon Rees developed the theme of the changing landscape
of Llanelli. This was the third in the series following
visits to the New Dock (2002) and Seaside (2003) areas
of Llanelli. Members met in Marsh Street on the edge of
the Wern area ( Wern means marsh). Throughout the evening
reference to estate maps, OS maps and early aerial photography
brought the area vividly to life. An early 19th century
traveller had described the Wern as one of the two suburbs
of Llanelli, the other being the Seaside or Flats. New
Dock had not yet been developed. The ecclesiastic parish
in the early 19th century was Llanelli but became St.
Paul's on the formation of that parish in 1875. St Paul's
church was built in 1850 but demolished in the 1980s.
The last service there was in 1980 but the graveyard is
still there as a reminder of the church's existence.
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Industrial Llanelli
from a 1923 aerial photograph
A Marshfield (Western) Tinworks
B Old Lodge Tinworks
C Wern (Nevill's) Foundry
D Greenfield Forge (shovel works)
E Lanmore (Waddle's) Foundry
G Malt House (Wern Works)
H Site of Bres Colliery
Llanelli Pottery was immediately above "E". |

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Members moved
up Station Road to the site of the Old Lodge Works, built
by Richard Nevill and a partner as an iron forge. From
1854 to 1884 the works produced ship plates and ship beams
for the Iron Shipbuilding Co. owned by William Henry Nevill,
Richard's brother. It then became a tinplate works from
1889 to 1941 when it was requisitioned for war work until
1945. The site was purchased by the Borough Council about
1951. On the opposite side of the road was the site of
the Marshfield Works, not in the Wern area but on the
edge of Seaside area. This works functioned as an iron
forge or works in 1863 to 1890 and also a tinworks from
1868 to 1953 as the Western works but always known as
Marshfield (or Mashfield) by Llanelli people. The development
of Trostre Works closed this and many of the works in
Llanelli. Both works were demolished in the 1950s and
the land developed for housing. Maes y Gors built on the
Marshfield site still exists but the Old Lodge flats have
since been demolished and new low-rise housing built on
the site. Members were then referred to the copies of
the maps and photograph that had been distributed and
asked to imagine the effect that the Old Lodge works had
on the area together with the foundries that extended
into the Wern.
The next viewpoint, below Bigyn School,
allowed a panoramic view of the area. The former Bull
Inn in Ann Street was pinpointed as a reference to the
maps and photograph. The sites of Bres, Wern and Tregob
coal mines were identified. Walter Vaughan, fourth son
of Walter Vaughan of Golden Grove and brother of Sir John
Vaughan, Golden Grove and Henry Vaughan of Derwydd, was
involved in the industrial development of the area. In
1634 he was granted land at Kraig Caswddy (Bigyn Hill)
by Edward Lloyd with all rights to coal mines. He died
in April 1635and the estate passed to his son, John Vaughan,
in 1637. In 1633 Charles Stepney leased coal rights to
Vaughan under Bres Vawr and Bres Fach. John Vaughan died
in 1669 and the estate passed to his widow and his son
Walter. Walter died in 1685 and the estate passed to his
mother and four sisters. Through marriage to the sisters
the estate passed to the Stepneys and Mansells.
The involvement of Roderick, Bowen and
Griffiths in the coal industry of the Wern and Bres collieries
was discussed and how Pemberton and Nevill became involved.
The diversion of the Box tramroad to join with the Wern
tramroad was shown on the maps. This became the Nevill's
Dock and Railway Company's railway. Members were reminded
of where the Old Lodge works stood and the locations of
the various foundries were pinpointed on the map and where
they once stood, now modern hosing and green areas. Who
would have believed that there had been a shovel works
in the area (Greenfield Forge) built in 1873 and closed
in 1966. Or that the Welsh Tinplate and Metal Stamping
Co. Ltd operated from old malt house in Ann Street in
1892 as the Wern Works before moving to Seaside.
Members then moved to the Asda car park,
now covering the site of the Pottery, with the site of
the Gasworks and Bres Colliery close by. From here members
walked around the Wern and were shown the site of Ebenezer
Morris's National school (1837), on the site of what is
now Cwrt Elusendy. The 1847 Blue Books report on this
school and other Wern schools were read. The school was
demolished in the late nineteenth century. The evening
was brought to a close with a walk down Als Street, past
Capel Als, along the route of the old Box tramway from
Glenalla Road. The building that was once the first Park
Street English Independent Church (1838) was identified.
In 1864 the church moved to a new site and grander building
in Murray Street and known as Park Congregational Church,
whose elegant spire was visible over the modern commercial
buildings.
Molly Rees
July: Field Day at St. Dogmael's
and Castell Henllys
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For the
July field day members travelled to North Pembrokeshire,
visiting the church and abbey at Llandudoch (St. Dogmael's)
and the Iron Age hill fort at Castell Henllys.
The Revd Dorian Davies welcomed the group
to the parish church of St. Thomas, on a site of Christian
worship since the sixth century when Tudog, a relative
of St. David, founded a hermitage which developed into
a monastic settlement, a clas. Celtic monasticism increased
in importance until 1110 when the Norman Lord Robert Fitzmartin
installed a branch of Benedictines from France. Their
priory was given abbey status in 1120, becoming the mother
church of Caldey and Pill and owning property in southern
Ireland and Devon. Today's extensive ruins cover only
a fifth of the original site, having been use as a quarry
by villagers over the centuries. The infirmary, the abbot's
house and the substantial kitchens which prepared the
lavish meals with which guests were entertained are clearly
visible. The huge abbey church, with the remains of the
massive pillars which supported the 120 foot high tower,
still has some richly coloured medieval tiles, once carefully
covered over every winter by the villagers, but now deteriorating
because guardianship has passed out of their hands. The
monks introduced seine fishing and, very probably, the
three unique apple varieties which are still found in
village gardens. After the Dissolution in 1536 money from
the abbey was used to complete the building of Hampton
Court.
Castell
Henllys is an Iron Age inland promontory fort, the
only Iron Age settlement in the UK to be reconstructed
on a genuine archaeological site dating from that period.
Dr. Harold Mytum, Senior Lecturer in Archaeology at York
University and Director of the excavation, emphasised
the sophistication of the people who lived in the large
circular houses with their thatched roofs extending almost
to ground level for maximum warmth and protection from
the fierce winds which often sweep across this exposed
hill top. Theirs was an affluent society - they could
afford to dig enormous defensive ditches and throw up
high banks. They even 'bought in' expertise to construct
an elaborate structure at the main entrance - two pairs
of guardrooms. The whole complex was intended to impress
neighbouring communities; it could be seen from a great
distance standing high above the valley.
The site has been excavated for 24 years
and features found here have contributed to knowledge
of the Iron Age. The outer walls have been extended at
times; the houses have mainly been rebuilt on the same
site when they needed renewing. At some stage after the
Roman invasion the settlement was abandoned and two farms
were developed just outside the main walls. Later the
main settlement was brought back into use. Traces of iron
working, unusual in a site of this kind, have been found
but because of the acid soil very few artefacts have survived.
A combination of scholarship, history and two witty speakers
made this a day to remember.
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The Revd Dorian Davies at the west end of the abbey
church

Margaret Holmes in the churchyard at St. Thomas's
Church, St. Dogmael's

Castell Henllys showing the excavation site at the
far end and the site of the massive gatehouse in the
foreground. The later farmsteads were in the patch of
shadow to the left of the entrance.
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August: Field Day at Llansteffan
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On a rare sunny day in
August Antiquarians visited Llansteffan for a field day
led by Eiluned Rees. Members thoroughly enjoyed the very
generous hospitality offered by the Llansteffan Historical
Society, who not only organised coffee in the Memorial
Hall on their arrival but also hosted a magnificent afternoon
tea to end a memorable day.
The morning session took place in the
parish church, where Eiluned succinctly traced the development
of the area from the pre-historic era through the settlement
of St. Steffan in the fifth century to the strategic importance
of the castle in relation to the one in Carmarthen. She
emphasised the significance of the area at the meeting
of sea and river routes. The town developed as a planted
settlement under the castle, a port in its own right and
a borough entitled to hold fairs. The castle lost its
importance after the Wars of the Roses and the Lloyd family
built the Plâs nearby. Nonconformity came very early
to the area. By the eighteenth century the tourist trade
was well established, depending first on the ferries and
then increasing greatly when the railway reached Ferryside.
The village prospered as it provided for visitors and
the big ships as they waited for the tide to go upstream
to Carmarthen. Local people who had made money, often
in the drapery trade, returned to build large houses.
Primarily a farming community, the village was self-sufficient
in all trades, including photography, as the many images
in the Historical Society's display demonstrated.
Edna Dale-Jones traced the history of
the Morris and Timmins families, both drawing their status
from commerce in Carmarthen. The Morris family produced
bankers and an M.P. and built The Cottage and Grove House
and eventually Bryn Myrddin. The Timmins family lived
at Lan, which was a fine house with a big farm. Having
made their money from an ironmonger's shop in Worcestershire,
they developed many interests, including shipbuilding
and rebuilding the Ivy Bush Hotel in Carmarthen.
Thomas Lloyd looked at many of the houses
in Llansteffan and the families connected with them. Two
branches of the Lloyd family lived at Lacques and the
Plâs. The Meares family, lawyers in London, inherited
the Plâs through marriage, demolishing and rebuilding
it in 1788 with a model farm. Interesting houses include
the Red Lion, with a date of 1690 on its roof beams, and
Bull House, with many inscriptions scratched into the
window panes by John Blome after the death of his young
wife.
In the afternoon walks were led by Diana
Bevan, John Edwards, John Pulley, chairman of the Historical
Society, and Eiluned Rees. Houses, chapels, mills, smithies
and shops which had been mentioned in the morning session
now came to life as they were pointed out by the knowledgeable
guides.
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Llansteffan in 1832
From a steel engraving by Henry Gastineau

Some of the tourists who were so important
to the economy of Llansteffan in the 19th century
From a steel engraving by Rock & Co. 1865
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